“It’s just discarded but it’s gold”

Zeeshan Ali has been a Drag performer for 10 years and took his show throughout India.

It is central to its performance a collection of about 45 wigs.

“It is a change of identity, it helps me to go from my daily routine to exaggerated, glamorous or fancy characters. The right wig makes me feel more authentic and gives me the opportunity to command the scene, “says Ali, who is based in Mumbai.

But to do this kind was not easy in the first days.

“When I started my career, the accessibility of the wigs was extremely difficult in India. Most of them had to be obtained from abroad or I used wigs obtained from everything that is available to me as a wave, fabric,” he says.

But now things are different.

“The trend is changing. The wigs are no longer just intended for players or movies, but many straight women wear wigs to look different. This is no longer just a hair accessory, but a statement in style. “

Indian hair has always been in search of wigs. The nation is the largest exporter of human hair in the world, providing 85% of global demand.

Kolachi Venkatesh, based in Avadi, Chennai, has been collecting hair for 20 years. It started at the bottom of the industry like a picker – collecting hair from households and saves it from the garbage.

“My parents were hairs on hair and then I started to do the same,” he says.

Hair collected by pickers from homes, salons and razors is called non-repair hair.

It requires more processing than a draw, which is carefully shaved by the scalp. Nevertheless, it has value.

“It’s just discarded, but it’s gold,” says G -V -Venkatesh.

These pickers usually sell hair to local merchants such as Venkates for between 10 cents and $ 1 (£ 0.80) per kilogram, depending on the quality and length of the hair.

Short or damaged hair extracts less, while longer threads carry higher prices.

There is not much money in it for the individual picker.

“The adhesive manifold can collect 1-5 kilograms of hair a day, earning from 59 cents to $ 6 a day. This level of income is often below the minimum wage standards, especially in rural areas, “says G -Vn Venkatesh, who has 50 peaks working for him.

“While our work contributes to the global market for a billion dollars, our profits remain scarce. The intermediaries control prices. ”

The greater part of Indian hair collected by traders such as Venkatesh is exported to China, where it becomes wigs.

“China has a huge wig industry that costs five to six billion dollars,” says Benjamin Cherian of Plexcicil, the body of the hair industry that promotes the Indian industry and connects with the government.

If India wants a slice from the profitable wig market, he says, then he has many catch -up.

“When we look at China, there are hundreds of factories throughout the country that add value to the hair industry, while in India you still need to take the value supplement,” says G -C Chern.

He says the government should help promote investment in the hair industry.

“He needs automated sorting systems, complex hair treatment procedures for collected hair, innovative techniques for the production of wigs that will make India stand out.”

Instead of exporting hair for hundreds of dollars, India has to sell wigs worth thousands of dollars, says d -Cherian.

“We started working on it, but it’s a long way. We need to have research and training centers, “he says.

An Indian business trying to intervene is Delhi -based divine hair, the co -founder of Nidi Tivani in 2009.

The idea was to create high quality hair and wig extensions to please a wider range of customers.

“The increasing need for these solutions is increasing due to the growing problems of hair loss and thinning among women in India,” says Gi Tivani.

The company is aided by a change in attitude.

“Since it is considered a niche or taboo topic, open wigs and extensions are now being discussed, thanks to developing social norms and moving to acceptance,” she says.

The wigs have also seen a lot of development, which makes them more attractive and comfortable.

“Technologies such as 3D wigs printed and digital color matching tools offer highly personalized options. Light, breathable wig caps and improved adhesives give customers to wear it for a long time without discomfort, “says Mrs. Tiwari.

At the top of the hair market is a temple or hair draws.

Much of the deliveries comes from the Hindu temples in the southern part of the country, where the hair is shaved in an act of respect and faith.

Raj Hair International is one of the largest traders in the hair temple business.

The craftsmen at the Chennai factory of the company sort the hair according to color, texture and length.

“Remy hair is aligned cuticles, the hair flows evenly in one direction, leading to less tangling and a more colorful texture. This is high-value hair,” says George Cherion, CEO of the company.

The company tries to lose as much as possible from the hair. To help with this, she has developed a hair unraveling machine. They are allowed to work faster with less staff.

“Our mission is constantly upgrading technology,” says Cheron.

The business is flourishing.

“The Indian man is worldwide demand because of the high quality, natural appearance and subtlety. Demand is growing rapidly,” he says.

Back in Mumbai Zeeshan Ali wants to see more Indian wigs on the market.

In addition to making them more accessible, he has a design proposal: “A wig that can create a wow factor.”