Why are craftsmen’s Indian shoes upset by the luxury Italian label

The West Indian city of Kolhapur finds itself in an unlikely global spotlight, as thousands of local craftsmen who hand -hand traditional leather shoes install a collective attack on a luxury fashion label Prada to discharge their design without credit.

The rhythmic killing of the hammer in the 58-year-old Sadashiv Sanake, the poorly lit workshop testifies to the heavy grinding behind handmade Kolhapuri’s iconic sandals.

“I learned the craft as a child,” he told the BBC. The same work goes to make only “eight to 10 pairs” of those sandals that he says retail trade at a modest $ 8-10

Only 5,000 craftsmen in Kolhapur are still in the profession – the villa industry that is struggling to compete in a mechanized world caught in funk of the dark working conditions and low salaries.

Then it is no surprise that when the Italian luxury brand Prada released a new line of shoes that had a striking resemblance to the sandals in Colhapuri – but did not mention design origin – the local craftsmen were in weapons.

The reverse reaction was quick. Social media were flooded by accusations of misappropriation of a culture that encouraged Prada to issue a statement Recognition of the roots of the sandals.

Now local politicians and industrial associations have thrown their burden behind the craftsmen who want better recognition of the craft and its cultural heritage.

Sanake was not aware of Prada’s show until the BBC showed him a video from him. When they said the sandals could be sold at hundreds of pounds in the luxury markets, he made fun of. “Do they have gold in them?” he asked.

Prada did not reveal the price, but its other sandals are sold at a retail of 600 and £ 1,000 in the UK according to its website.

Kolhapur sandals date from the 12th century.

“These sandals were originally made by members of the marginalized community in Chamakar (Kakalder), also known as Chamari,” says Kavita Garanna, a professor of history at the new college in Kolhapur.

Chamar is a pejorative caste term used to describe Daliti (previously known as untouchables) who work with animal skins.

“But in the early 20th century, the craft flourished when the then ruler of Kolhapur, Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, provided royal patronage to this community,” said Gi Garana.

Today, nearly 100,000 craftsmen in India are involved in the industry trade over $ 200 million, according to the Maharash Trade, Industry and Agriculture (Maccia), a well -known trade group in the industry.

Still, most of them continue to work in unorganized settings under gloomy conditions.

“I have never been educated. That’s all I know, and I earn about $ 4-5 a day, depending on the number of orders,” says 60-year-old Sunita SatPut.

Women like her play a critical role, especially in the engraving of fine models by hand, but are not compensated fairly for their long hours, she said.

That is why Sunni’s children do not want to continue the craft.

At a short distance from her workshop is the famous Chapal Dere of Kolhapur, or the sandal tape, the crowd of showcases – many of them are struggling to stay on voyage.

“The skin has become very expensive and pushed our expenses,” said Anil Doipod, one of the first sellers to open a store here.

Traditionally, craftsmen would use cows and buffaloes to make these sandals. But since 2014, when the Hindu Nationalist Party Bharatiy Gianna (BJP) came to power, there were several reports of vigilant – self -appointed protesters or activists – they were destroyed by the alleged slaughter of cows, sometimes with physical violence. The cow is considered sacred by the Hindus.

In 2015, the state of Maharashtra banned the slaughter of cows and the sale and consumption of beef, forcing craftsmen from relying on buffalo skin derived from neighboring countries by pushing their production costs.

Traditional sellers are also struggling to compete with the synthetic copies that flood the market.

“Customers want cheaper sandals and they can’t always say the difference,” says Rohit Balkishna Gavali, a second-generation sandal sandal salesman.

Experts in the industry say that the dispute emphasizes the need for a better institutional framework for the protection of craftsmen.

In 2019, the Indian government awarded the Kolhapuri sandals the geographical indication (GI), a mark of authenticity that protects its name and design in India, preventing unauthorized use by outsiders.

Globally, however, there is no binding law to stop other countries or brands of aesthetic imitation.

Aishwarya Sandeep, a Mumbai -based lawyer, says India could raise the issue of the World Trade Organization under its trips (related to the trade aspects of intellectual property rights) from which he has signed.

But the system is cumbersome, expensive and often lacking applicability in both India and abroad, she adds.

Lalith Gandhi, President of McCia, says his organization plans to patent the design of sandals in Kolhapuri, hoping to create a legal precedent for future cases.

But some say that true change can only happen when India begins to see its traditional heritage in different light.

“It’s about ethical recognition. India must insist on sharing royalty and co-branding,” says Ritu Berry, a well-known designer. “The more we are proud of our culture, the less we will be exploited.”

Of course, this is not the first time the world fashion brand has been accused of assigning Indian crafts.

Many large labels have presented Indian fabrics and embroidery work with little or no cooperation for artists. “Take Chikancari (delicate style of handmade Embroid from the northern Indian city of Laknau), Ikat (fabric painting technique), mirror work; all of them have been used repeatedly. The craftsmen remain invisible as the brands benefit from their inspiration,” says Ms Berry.

However, Gandhi says that Prada’s approval for Kolhapuri sandals can also be beneficial for craftsmen.

“Under their label, the value (of Colhapuri sandals) will increase the variety,” he says. “But we want some share of this profit to be handed over to the craftsmen for their improvement.”

Rohit Balkishna Gavali, a sandal salesman in Kolhapur, agrees – he has already begun to see the difference.

“The design that Prada used was not even very popular, but now people want it, with clients from Dubai, USA and Qatar,” who place orders, “he says.

“Sometimes the dispute can help,” he adds. “But it would be nice if it also brings respect and better prices for those who support this tradition alive.”

The problem is unlikely to die soon.

So far, a legal basis has been filed in the Supreme Court, requiring Prada compensation and compensation of craftsmen, together with a cooperation that is overestimated by the court between the luxury label and the craft associations.

Prada told the BBC in a statement that he was in conversations with McCia on the matter.

G -n Gandhi, her chief, says a meeting between the two countries will take place next week.

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