Skinnier models selected for the Fashion Week in Paris

The high fashion industry has always been synonymous with subtlety, but for a brief moment in 2010, the body’s positivity movement was at the forefront.

He promised a revolution of the acceptance of organs of all shapes and sizes, welcoming curves and advocates to include, especially on the track.

But for 10 years onwards, industrial internal faces tell us that things have shifted. Was the positivity of the body a trend of flash in the panel? And with the help of weight loss medicines like Ozepic, is it skinny for good?

We are talking to designers, casting agents and models of the Fashion Week in Paris to explore what is happening.

Thehe Movement of body positiveness He finds his origin in the vague days of the 1960s and is aided by icons such as Marilyn Monroe, which expanded the Hollywood Hard Standard.

He was again brought to the fore in 2010 when Instagram launched and the influential began to emphasize fashion and beauty beyond the shiny magazines and runways.

Help for this was the celebrity of the Kardashian family, whose curves were triggered by BBLS (Brazilian Operation of Rape Lifting) around the world.

Enrica, a 28-year-old plus size model, said: “When the body’s positivity movement appears, it feels incredibly empowling and liberating.”

“I felt like an act of rebellion – what had always been criticized was now appreciated. It was as if we were at last enough.”

The plus size models were booked for large brands, including the highly desired label of Rihanna’s underwear, “Savage X Fenty”, which started in 2018.

The brand, estimated at $ 1 billion, became known for its extravaganzi on the runway, reminiscent of a modern alternative to the iconic Victoria’s Secret shows, but this time with every type of display.

Felicity Hayward, a 36-year-old plus size model, thinks about being intelligence in 2011.

“When I received this call from my first modeling agency, a storm – which Kate Moss found – I thought I was a punk,” she said.

“Before 2010, the attitudes around the larger bodies were not positive and I never thought it was a plus size model.

“Seeing this change in the story in the last decade and a half life has changed both emotionally, physically and financially.”

But then around 2020, progress began to slow down. And autumn of autumn and winter of 2024, from 8,800 views in 230 shows, only 0.8 percent were on models plus size, Vogue ReportsS

At the same time, a new weight loss medicine used to treat diabetes has come to the market and jumped in popularity. Semaglutide, also known as Ozepic and Wegovy, limits the appetite of users and was NHS approved For weight loss in 2023

Celebrities including Elon Musk I started lending the medicine for their recent slim frame and it was only a matter of time before it came to users.

As Ozepic and his colleagues become more commercially available for aesthetic purposes, industrial internal persons claim to have influenced the movement of body’s positivity.

Model, mine, said, “We saw how quickly the story is shifting, with celebrities and influencing uses operations or medicines like Ozmpic to chase what is considered” fashion. “

Another model, Jenny, said, “When I realized that Skinny was back, it was positive because I would have more jobs.

“But I realized that it means I have to go on now. Now I have to be SkinniEastS “

Even the editorial director of British Vogue said that The fashion industry “should worry” with a recent tendency to use more skinny patterns

Luckling In front of the BBC Radio 4 program today: “I think maybe Ozepich has something to do with him.”

“At that moment, we are at this moment when we see the pendulum turn to the skinny creature” B “and often these things are treated as a tendency and we do not want them to be.”

Then the Berlin brand, the wink, became a viral for T -shirt “I Love Ozepic” on its fashion track in 2024.

“Teo” I Love Ozepic “really hit a nerve,” laughed Nan Li, the creative director of the brand, who claims that the T -shirt is satire.

“With the rise of Ozepik, so many people have used it. In the last few years, celebrities have simply weakened and have not talked about it.”

Quickly forward to January, when the Men Fashion Week AW25 lands in Paris and the audience receives a lacquo test in real time exactly where the brands are.

In addition to a selection of designers, including Rick Owens, LGN and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, I can count on two hands how many models plus size I saw per week of shows.

Nan said, “Paris celebrates elitism, and elitism means lean and white.”

“There are a handful of plus-sized models (in exhibitions), but they are not really the plus they are normal in size. They are represented in every show to make the brand look positive.”

Against the backdrop of The Hustle and Busty of Fashion Week, Shaun Beyen, director of casting for an iconic French brand Fursac, told BBC: “The only motivation for the brand is to sell clothes – that’s all. I don’t think we have to lie about it S

“The brands adopted the positivity of the body in 2010, as they partly saw this as a commercial opportunity and when they saw that they were no longer presenting, as they would hop in 2020, they jumped.”

Bean added, “Full transparency – I don’t really want to see someone like me. I want to see it to someone I strive to look like.”

Gothier Borsarelo, the creative director of Fursak, laughed in agreement and said, “I hate my body. I don’t want to see people like me.”

On the other hand, designers like Charles Jeffrey believe that brands have a moral imperative to throw inclusion. “The positiveness of the body has never been a trend for me,” he said. “It was an opportunity to start holding responsibility.”

The positiveness of the body is knitted in the very tissue of the Charles brand, which draws inspiration from the Queer Nightlife scene. This is easily obvious during his show at the Fashion Week in Paris.

The designer explained: “The people in my shows are the people with whom I am a club with. It was never about models, these were my friends and their different forms of body. It was about the community with which I surrounded myself.”

The reality seems to be that designers like Charles are an exception to the rule. As much as they oppose activists, industrial internal persons confirm that the body’s positivity is behind us.

Daniel Mitchell-Jones, co-founder of the Modeling Agency’s management, said: “Yes, things have shifted. In 2020 and 2021, we saw so much more diversity and the inclusion of the slopes-but with the body place, this is now in the back seat now. “

Daniel said that when he sends his models to a casting curve, they are always pushed, but it is often said that the brand is not interested this season.

The plus size Enrica size told the BBC that not only are they booked with plus, their agents are actively struggling to provide work for them.

She explained: “It is not uncommon to see campaigns involving four sampling models and only one plus size model. This can make you feel like a simple sign.”

Enrika said these brands sometimes often use tactics in campaigns to be included signals of virtue-like, for example, emphasizing stretch marks on plus-sized models while aerials on others.

She said: “He sends the message that” we don’t really think, money, “it’s a nasty job and I don’t support it. “

If you want change, change your purchase habits. At least this is what Sean Bayen believes: “Everything is driven by consumers.”

“This is this kind of vicious circle. Each fashion house gives its version of what it knows that the client wants, this is their interpretation and depends on the user.”

Gothier Borsarelo said, “There is a famous French language:” If people stop producing, people will stop buying. ” But the opposite is true.

“No one forces you to do anything.

And the only advantage of bodies as trends is that the pendulum will eventually go back. Bean said, “Nothing has ever disappeared, especially not in fashion.”